Swagger

Growing up in the Waldo area of Kansas City, I've come to love the shops and store fronts that line Wornal Road from about Gregory to 89th Street. As a kid, I was mystified by what went on inside many of those places.

I remember riding my bike to school with a few kids from the neighborhood. We had to cross Wornall to get there. But before we'd cross, we'd stop into McClain's Bakery and each buy a "Butter Roll" to start the day. The nice ladies who ran the place would smile patiently as we scrounged for change in our "Fanny Packs" (or fished for dollar bills in the "roll" of our Tight-Rolled Docker's.) As we'd leave the store, we'd quickly sneak a peek inside the place next door affectionately known as "Bobby Baker's Lounge", and I'd think: What on Earth is that place? And why are there people in there at 7:30 in the morning?

Well, for a long time I'd had the same thoughts when I'd drive by SWAGGER - a new-ish dive bar and grill at 84th and Wornall. Not as a kid, of course (it hasn't been open much more than a year or two), and not at 7:30 a.m. But after years of the place (under a different name and a different owner) being a forgettable bar with terrible parking and zero street cred, Swagger took Waldo by storm with allegedly awesome food and an edgy dive-bar scene. Word spread quickly about the place ... all the way to Guy Fieri, Food Network star and hair-product extraordinare.

Ever since Fieri featured it on Food Network's "Diners, Dives and Drive-In's" and gave it rave reviews, I've made it a point to try it out. Well, in the past two weeks, I've had Swagger twice. It's good stuff - good food, good variety and a great-looking menu, and people like it quite a bit. The only problem is, the food isn't incredible... in my humble and long-winded opinion.

Now, that's probably not fair to Swagger. Because I'll be honest, the one place I want to compare this place to is The Peanut. Why? I'm not sure why. I guess because they have a similar ambiance and the bold claims about the food.

Judging by everything I've eaten at Swagger and everything I've seen others eat there, I can say the place is very, very good. But it didn't blow me away. Again, if I didn't have The Peanut's wings and BLT and Reuben and BBQ Pork and Pork Tenderloin sandwiches on my mind (all day, everyday), I'd probably say the place is incredible. But I'm not going to make that claim today.

My first trip to Swagger was with my friend Jon. We'd been excited to try the place, and a Saturday morning with the NCAA tournament games on the TV was the perfect setting for a good lunch. We ordered some Budweiser's to whet our appetites. The waitress was nice and friendly, and definitely had an edge about her that fit the ambiance perfectly.

We started out with a dozen buffalo wings. The wing sauce was tasty and hot...just right. We chose "buffalo style", but there are a few other sauce choices, all of which sounded awesome and I look forward to sampling the other flavors next time. The only problem was - while the sauce was terrific - the wings themselves were a little too much work for our liking. All I can say is this, we only ate 10 of the 12.

Thanks but no thanks for the carrots and celery.

There were a few things on the menu that had to be tried: The Dead Texan and The Steve Martin. Jon had the Dead Texan - a hefty burger that basically has everything on it that needs to be on a burger: Two Texas toast grilled cheese sandwiches with a 1/3 lb. burger, 1 egg, 2 slices of bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion, jalapenos, and peppercorn mayo in between. Oh yes!

Needless to say, I was jealous of Jon. Not only because of his boyish good looks, but because of the culinary challenge that covered his plate.

Of course, this picture doesn't do it any where close to justice.

Again, terrible picture. I think the waitress was staring at me.

Jon said he liked the burger, but the most intriguing part (the double grilled cheese sandwiches) were underwhelming. He said it just added extra bread to the equation. Never a welcome addition. If the grilled cheese book-ends had been a bit more substantial, I think the burger would have delivered.

I ordered "The Steve Martin" - Teriyaki marinated chicken breast seasoned w/ their house Jamaican jerk seasoning w/ Swiss, Dijon mustard & topped w/ wasabi coleslaw.

Man, it was dark in there.

It was a good sandwich, hit the spot. The wasabi coleslaw is very tasty. But it can dominate the dish. I didn't mind that. It's good stuff. Just as good was the jerk seasoning. Every bite satisfied. The fries were good. Nothing incredible (to be fair, neither is the Peanut's...unless you put chili and cheese on 'em, which I do), but very acceptable ... I ate them all.

During my second trip to Swagger, I went with a group of friends on a Saturday night. The place was packed - it was hopping...and had a good vibe about it. We were on our way to a surprise party so we were in a bit of hurry. I'd heard the food takes a while when the place gets crowded. That was an understatement. However, they were kind enough to alert us of that, so there were no surprises ... and (honestly) that was much, much appreciated. I wish every restaurant did that if it takes longer than the average place. Nicely done, Swagger.

This time, I ordered the Waldo Trucker - Pulled Pork Sand., BBQ sauce, plus fries, pickles & wasabi coleslaw on it.

The pork was tender and tasty, as was all the toppings. The sandwich was a little sloppy, but it was good stuff. Plus, the name is awesome.

All in all, Swagger is definitely worth checking out. The Dead Texan, the Waldo Trucker and the Steve Martin are all sandwiches worth trying. I'm betting that you will thoroughly enjoy each of them, if you like good and greasy bar food (who doesn't?). 

So try this place out. It's good, and I'm betting it will keep getting better.

- BTF